Testing Cameras and Lenses

A simple but highly effective rig for testing the detail and sharpness of your cameras and lenses.

The photo on the right shows a simple but highly effective test rig I use to test the detail and sharpness of all my cameras and lenses. In a bit, we'll get to the nitty gritty of building and using this test rig, but to start off, It's important to understand why all the extra effort of target testing is so beneficial.

Benefits of Target Testing

Here's a partial list of some of the benefits of target testing your cameras and lenses.

A Tiny Bit of Science

The whole point of target testing is to use science to help us improve our photography. To this end, understanding a tiny bit of optical and digital imaging science helps immeasurably.

In a nutshell, photographic image quality is controlled by just two primary factors, magnification and system resolution. In turn, magnification is set by focal length and focus distance, and system resolution is primarily set by camera resolution and lens resolution.

Camera resolution is primarily set by physical pixel size. Larger pixels translate into lower pixel density, which ultimately translates into lower camera resolution.

In outline form it looks like this:

To test lens resolution, magnification and camera resolution must be kept equal.

To test camera resolution, magnification and lens resolution must be kept equal.

To test lenses of differing focal lengths, magnification can be equalized by changing focus distance.

If a zoom lens is involved, magnification can be equalized by keeping focus distance constant and zooming lens focal length.

That's it. Hopefully not too confusing.

Practical Applications

Target testing is surprisingly practical. The single test below shows us how to:

  • Use science to purchase cameras with substantially higher resolution, and better image quality.
  • Save up to $6,600 while doing this.
  • Use science to avoid myths, erroneous conventional wisdom, marketing hype, and sales pressure concerning 35mm full-frame sensors.
  • Shoot much more efficiently and with better image quality using LF JPEG file mode.
  • Vastly increase magnification and the capture of micro detail.
  • Use teleconverters without degrading lens resolution.
  • Substantially reduce the weight and bulk of camera systems.
  • Capture amazing amounts of micro-detail from tremendous distances.

The photo on the left was taken with a Canon 1Ds Mark II in RAW file mode (equipment and photo courtesy of Mike Spinak). The photo on the right was taken with a Nikon D2X in LF JPEG file mode with in-camera sharpening disabled. Both photos were taken from a distance of 21' using the same Sigma 300-800mm lens at 800mm with stacked Sigma 1.4X and 2X teleconverters. A Nikon to Canon adapter ring was used to mount the 1Ds Mark II. Thus, magnification and lens resolution were kept strictly equal. The Canon 1Ds Mark II covers more target surface area due to its physically larger sensor.



The top photo is a straight 250x250 pixel crop from the Canon 1Ds Mark II image, and the bottom photo is a straight 250x250 pixel crop from the Nikon D2X image. The greater coverage and lower detail of the 1Ds Mark II crop is due to physically larger pixels. Larger pixels mean lower pixel density, which with most digital cameras, ultimately translates into lower camera resolution.

Note how the above test isn't exactly fair. The 1Ds Mark II photo was taken in RAW file mode with default Camera Raw sharpening, while the D2X photo was taken in LF JPEG file mode with no in-camera or external sharpening. In spite of this substantial 1Ds Mark II advantage, the higher resolution of the D2X still ends up rendering greater detail.

Once you've set up your test rig and gotten the hang of using it, it's amazing the practical things you can do with it. Here's a partial list of some of the practical ways I've used my test rig.

Photographic Fundamentals. The reason I put so much effort into testing all my cameras and lenses is to learn their capabilities and optimal configurations like the back of my hand. That way, in the field, I don't have to worry about any of this. I can put near 100% concentration into expertly executing photographic fundamentals. Ultimately, this is what creates great photographs, not extra detail and sharpness.

Emotion Control. I have a lens that at one time I was absolutely convinced was defective. Testing with an identical borrowed unit proved this was all in my head. After doing a lot of testing, you'll be flabbergasted how much and how often your emotions about equipment fly in the face of reality. And you'll be flabbergasted how much money, time, and angst these emotions end up costing you.

Defective units. Sometimes you actually will have a defective unit.

Digiscoping. Back in 1999, I tried digiscoping with a Nikon Coolpix 950 and a cheap, fixed-eyepiece spotting scope. It was not pretty. Consequently, for many years I harbored the notion digiscopes were poor man's monster lenses. Today, my test rig has shown me monster lenses are dumb man's digiscopes.

Monster Lenses. For many nature photographers, the monster telephoto lens has a way of growing to monstrous proportions in the psyche. It truly is the ultimate nature photography status symbol. If you've fallen under the spell of monster lens envy, I strongly recommend renting the lens of your dreams and a Sigma 50-500mm lens. Thoroughly try-out both these lenses in the field and on your test rig. Create a comparison checklist that includes not only detail and sharpness, but also weight, tripod support, handholding, ergonomics, comfort, logistics, travel, and productivity. Does the extra magnification of your monster lens really provide that much more detail and sharpness? If necessary, repeat the rent and test cycle until you have a thorough understanding of what you're getting, and what you're getting into. $4,000-$9,000 is a lot of money to spend on a single lens. Make sure you're getting your money's worth.

Looking Good Photographing vs. Good Looking Photographs. In the field, I often observe camera equipment being worn as jewelry. I must admit, in the face of all this bling, I sometimes feel twinges of equipment embarrassment for my funky little mongrel digiscopes and unglamourous third-party lenses, and perhaps a bit of regret for giving up endorsements and publicity by using all this incongruous equipment. With testing, however, these feelings quickly pass. Test results give me absolute confidence in my motley outfit. Every bit of equipment is deployed based on results, period. I would much rather wear a bag over my head in the field, than when I show my photographs.

Magnification and Camera Resolution. Most photographers attribute high digital image quality to large numbers of megapixels and high lens resolution. Brand name, high price, and big sensors are also commonly associated with high digital image quality. However, magnification and camera resolution (pixel density) are almost universally ignored. Testing shows this is a huge oversight. Two of the most powerful and inexpensive ways to increase digital image quality are increasing magnification, and using a dSLR camera with higher pixel density.

RAW File Mode. Since March 2000, I've made numerous serious (and seriously expensive) attempts at establishing a high-volume RAW workflow. In all cases, benefits just could not rise far enough above the costs of using RAW in a high-volume operation (especially the costs in time). Recent testing, however, has exposed a new lensmaker gambit of designing professional, lightweight, low-resolution, RAW-only superzoom lenses. For me, such lenses have many great uses, and as a result, RAW processing has gained a solid toehold in my high-volume workflow.

Hoof-in-Mouth Prevention. When commenting about digital image quality, testing often prevents me from making a jackass of myself, and putting a hoof in my mouth. Whenever you comment about the image quality of a camera or lens without first testing your assumptions, chances are good you'll be making an embarassingly incorrect statement.

In-camera Features. Simple on-off tests help establish the efficacy of various in-camera features. For example, target tests show, to my tastes, Nikon in-camera sharpening does more harm than good. Consequently, disabling this feature is part of my LF JPEG exposure baseline.

Etcetera. This is just a starter list of the many practical applications of your camera and lens test rig.

Building and Operating a Test Rig


In this positioning example, the first step is to raise the center of the lens to the center of the dollar bill.


Next, with the zoom lens set to the desired focal length, the camera is moved until the white background paper just fills the width of the camera frame. In this example, a Nikon 18-200mm lens is set to 200mm.


A tape measure running along the top crossbar of the test rig is used to laterally adjust the camera so that the center of the lens aligns with the center of the dollar bill.


With the tripod and camera unmoved, a Sigma 50-500mm lens is swapped for the Nikon 18-200mm. The lens is then zoomed until the white background paper just fills the width of the camera frame. This ensures focal length (magnification) is kept equal.


The test rig consists of a used dollar bill taped on all four sides to the geometric center of a sheet of standard 11x8.5" white copy paper. The copy paper is then centered and taped on four sides to the top edge of an old wooden crate.

Lens height is set by using a sturdy tripod to raise the center axis of the lens to the height of Washington's nose.

Camera positioning, focus distance, and lens alignment are set using several different methods. For example, when the camera needs to be positioned at a 21' focus distance, two strings attached 14" to the left and right of center are employed. Both these strings have markers at 21' 3/8". When these markers are joined and the strings pulled taut, a position is formed for the center axis of the lens at the film plane of the camera.

Another positioning method is to move the tripod back and forth until the vertical sides of the white background paper touch the vertical sides of the camera frame within the viewfinder. A tape measure running from the back of the crate and along the center crossbar is then used to align the center axis of the lens.

Agreed, this isn't the most precise laboratory instrument in the world, but we're not trying to put a man on Mars here. We're just trying to prevent those pesky little $500-$50,000 purchasing blunders.

A Real World Lens Test

The photographs below show a real world lens test between a Nikon 18-200mm lens at 200mm and a Sigma 50-500mm lens also at 200mm. Both images are unaltered 500x166-pixel crops from the original images straight out of the camera. The fact that both images cover about the same surface area of the dollar bill is good confirmation of virtually identical magnification. By using the same Nikon D2X body for both lenses, camera resolution is kept exactly equal.

Thus, with magnification and camera resolution equal, we're assured the differences in detail and sharpness are due strictly to differences in lens resolution.

By closely examining the micro-detail of these two photographs, especially in the lower left corner, one can positively conclude, at 200mm, the Sigma 50-500mm is a significantly sharper lens than the Nikon 18-200mm. This conclusion is supported by extensive results from the field.

Nikon 18-200mm @ 200mm. 1/2000 second, f/8, -0.5 EC, ISO 250, LF JPEG, sharpening off.

Sigma 50-500mm @ 200mm. 1/2000 second, f/8, -0.5 EC, ISO 250, LF JPEG, sharpening off.

A careful comparison of micro-detail in these two photographs (especially in the lower left corner) shows this lens is significantly sharper than the Nikon 18-200mm lens.

The two photographs below show how focus distance and focal length were used to equalize magnification. In the case of the Nikon 18-200mm, focus distance was set by moving the tripod until the width of the white background filled the camera frame. In the case of the Sigma 50-500mm, the same focus distance was used, but the lens was zoomed until the white background filled the width of the camera frame. This procedure ensured virtually equal magnification.

Nikon 18-200mm @ 200mm. Focus distance was set by moving the tripod until the white background filled the width of the camera frame.

Sigma 50-500mm @ 200mm. Focus distance was kept exactly the same as the photo on the left. To equalize magnification, the lens was zoomed until the white background filled the width of the camera frame.

Controlling Incidental Variables

For these tests to be valid, incidental variables such as camera shake, camera positioning, lighting, wind, and focusing accuracy must be carefully controlled.

Here are some of the techniques used to control these incidental variables.

Repeatability

The best way to check and defend the validity of your testing is to repeat the tests. When comparing test results, check for the following problems.

If you chronically suffer from any of these problems, double check your procedures for errors.

The test rig hits the road to test borrowed cameras and lenses.

Recommendations

Here's a brief list of recommendations that could significantly improve the detail and sharpness of your photographs, and end up saving you more than $10,000. I'm highly confident in these recommendations because I have the test results to back them up. If you have legitimate, repeatable test results that dispute any of my recommendations, please, please email me. If you simply disagree with my recommendations, but have no test results, please, please do not email me.

Note how all these findings run just about 180-degrees counter to what most magazines, marketers, salespeople, Internet pundits, colleagues, and friends will tell you. For example, most "experts" will tell you the Canon 1Ds Mark II with its high $7,200 price tag, big 35mm full-frame sensor, and huge 16,700,000 pixel count delivers substantially better detail and sharpness than 10-12-megapixel APS-C dSLR cameras.

Science and testing show the opposite is true.

At stake here are thousands and thousand of dollars of your money. Also at stake are weeks, months and even years of your time, and the baseline image quality of your photographs. High stakes, indeed.

Fortunately, testing for detail and sharpness is relatively quick, easy, and inexpensive, and the results are accurate, objective, and repeatable. Considering the stakes, undertaking your own camera and lens testing program will undoubtedly be worth the extra time and effort.

—MTH



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